Some random bit of information you may find helpful.
Bolt for back of receiver to panel is 4-40 3/8”. Available at hardware stores.
If your remote screws no longer hold the unit together, get some 2-56 bolts 3/4” long. These will reach down to remaining stub and tighten up. Available at hardware stores.
Remote battery, use alkaline only, not lithium, not heavy duty as these will not provide maximum consistent power.
When testing, keep in mind that the receiver output is two relay contacts that connect together when it is on. That’s it. You can test the contacts with a multimeter, set on ohms. It should show no more than .2 ohms when on. Any more and it could be erratic.
Boots for remote are NKK brand, AT-402S. AT402 is useable, though a little long. Available at mouser.com and digikey.com.
Switch is NKK M2018BB3W01, available from Mouser and Digikey. HOWEVER, switch connections are made through plated holes which often rip out in replacing a switch. Extra wires must be run from top to bottom, or it will not be reliable. I do not encourage this as a do it yourself job.
I test units to 300 feet for RCT4, about 100’ for RCT-804. Many will do better.
Wire colors in original cable: Red 12 v, black ground, green&white on-off, yellow&orange frd/rev or speed, Blue and brown are not used. If you don’t seem to have enough wires, test the remote with the receiver for 12 volts to ground at the non-power wires. Often the missing one of the pair is connected 12 volts inside the receiver, so the other goes to 12 volts when it is on.
Code number is base 2, starting from the left of the metal strip on the remote with components visible, at the bottom of the strip with the cords at the bottom of the receiver. For each solid connection, add, in the sequence, 1,2,4,8,16,32,64,128,256,512. Code numbers over 1023 follow the above but have an extra connection on the back of the board for which you add 1024.
You can use the Libre Office (free download) spreadsheet to figure out the jumpers: Remcode.ods
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